Merv, Turkmenistan Travel Guide: Silk Road Ruins & Tips

Merv is one of the great lost cities of the Silk Road. Its ruins lie in the Murghab River oasis of Mary Province in southeastern Turkmenistan, on the edge of the Karakum Desert, about 30 km east of the modern city of Mary and roughly 350 km east of the capital, Ashgabat. For more than two thousand years successive cities rose here side by side, so that today the archaeological park spreads across some 1,200 hectares of walls, citadels, mausoleums and mud-brick mansions. In 1999 Ancient Merv became Turkmenistan’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The oasis was a satrapy of the Persian Achaemenid Empire, was refounded by the Seleucids as Antiochia Margiana, and later served as an eastern stronghold of the Parthians and Sasanians. After the Arab conquest it became a launch point for the Abbasid revolution, and under the Seljuk Turks in the 11th and 12th centuries Merv grew into one of the largest cities in the world, celebrated for its libraries, observatory and scholars. The Mongols sacked it in 1221, and it never fully recovered. Visiting Merv on a Palace Tours rail journey lets you walk through these layers of history at an unhurried pace, with expert guides bringing each era to life.

What to see in Merv

• Erk Kala:The oldest part of Merv, a raised circular citadel from the Achaemenid period. Climb its earthen ramparts for a sweeping view over the later cities and the surrounding oasis.
• Gyaur Kala:The square Hellenistic city of Antiochia Margiana, with the remains of a Buddhist stupa and monastery, a reminder that Merv once marked the western reach of Buddhism, and the ruins of the early Beni Makhan mosque.
• Sultan Kala:The vast Seljuk-era city whose long walls and gateways still trace its outline across the plain. This was the heart of Merv at its 12th century peak.
• Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar:The masterpiece of the site, a cube crowned by a great double dome, built for the last great Seljuk sultan. Its restored interior brickwork and painted details show the engineering that influenced later Islamic architecture across Central Asia.
• Great and Lesser Kyz Kala:Two remarkable koshk, fortified mansions of corrugated mud-brick walls from the early medieval period. Their ribbed facades are among the most photographed sights in Turkmenistan, especially in the low light of late afternoon.
• Mausoleums of the Two Askhab:A pilgrimage site honouring two companions of the Prophet Muhammad, with twin tombs fronted by tall iwans. Local pilgrims still visit, giving the site a living spiritual atmosphere.
• Mausoleum of Muhammad ibn Zayd:A small 12th century shrine with fine carved inscriptions, revered by visitors from across the region.
• Ice houses (yakhdan):Conical mud-brick structures once used to store winter ice through the scorching summers, a clever piece of desert engineering scattered around the oasis.

Many travellers combine Merv with the Mary Regional Museum, which displays finds from the oasis, and with Gonur Depe, the Bronze Age capital of ancient Margiana in the desert to the north of Mary.

What to eat in Merv

Turkmen cooking is hearty and centred on mutton, rice and bread. The signature dish is plov, rice slow-cooked with lamb, carrots and onions in a large kazan. Look out also for dograma, torn bread and meat in a rich broth, manty steamed dumplings, gutap, thin pastries filled with meat, pumpkin or greens, and ichlekli, a meat pie traditionally baked in hot sand. Shashlik grilled over charcoal is everywhere.

Fresh round chorek bread baked against the walls of a clay tamdyr oven is served at every meal. Turkmenistan is famous for its melons, so in late summer and autumn try the fragrant local varieties. Green tea, gok chay, is the everyday drink, and adventurous travellers can sample chal, a tangy fermented camel milk.

Shopping & crafts

Turkmen carpets are the country’s proudest craft, woven in deep reds with tribal gul motifs that differ from clan to clan. Mary Province has its own weaving traditions, and smaller rugs, saddlebags and woven bands make excellent souvenirs. Also look for chunky silver jewellery set with carnelian, embroidered textiles and the shaggy telpek sheepskin hats worn by Turkmen men. Note that older or larger carpets may need an export certificate, so buy from reputable shops that can provide the paperwork.

Best time to visit

Spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) are the most pleasant seasons, with warm days, cool evenings and soft light for photography. Summers in the Karakum are fiercely hot, often well above 40°C, while winters can be cold and windy. Arriving by luxury train removes much of the strain of long overland transfers in any season.

Good to know

• Turkmenistan requires a visa for most nationalities, supported by a letter of invitation, so allow plenty of time. Travelling on an organised rail journey makes the formalities much simpler.
• The archaeological park is very large; monuments are reached by vehicle, so wear sturdy shoes and bring a hat, sunscreen and water.
• The local currency is the manat and cash is king. Carry clean, recent US dollar notes as card acceptance is limited.
• Dress modestly, especially at the mausoleums and pilgrimage sites, and avoid photographing government buildings, police or military sites.
• Internet access is restricted and patchy, so download maps, books and entertainment before you arrive.