Luarca, Asturias Travel Guide: Spain’s White Town by the Sea

Luarca is the whitewashed fishing town that locals call the “Villa Blanca de la Costa Verde” – the white town of the Green Coast. It sits on the western coast of Asturias in northern Spain, roughly 95 km west of Oviedo, where the Río Negro winds through a narrow valley and meets the Cantabrian Sea in a sheltered, tightly packed harbour. Houses with white facades and slate roofs climb the steep slopes on both sides of the river, linked by a string of small bridges, while brightly painted fishing boats crowd the port below.

For centuries Luarca lived from the sea. Its fishermen’s guild was one of the most important on the Cantabrian coast and the town was a notable whaling port, sending crews out after right whales in the Bay of Biscay. Later, emigrants who made fortunes in the Americas – the “indianos” – returned to build colourful mansions on the edge of town. Luarca is also the birthplace of Severo Ochoa, the biochemist awarded the Nobel Prize in Medicine in 1959, who chose to be buried in its clifftop cemetery. Today it is one of the most photogenic stops on a luxury rail journey along Spain’s green north coast.

What to see in Luarca

• The fishing harbour – The heart of town: a compact port where fishing boats, nets and waterfront cafés sit beneath the white houses. Come in the late afternoon when the boats return and the light turns gold on the facades.
• La Atalaya chapel and the Mesa de Mareantes – On the headland above the port, the little Ermita de la Atalaya looks straight out to sea. Beside it stands the Mesa de Mareantes, the stone table where the elders of the fishermen’s guild met to decide when it was safe to sail.
• Luarca Cemetery – Often described as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Spain, it is perched on the cliffs with sweeping views over the bay. Severo Ochoa’s grave is here, and the walk up gives the best panorama of the town.
• Luarca Lighthouse – A short stroll further along the same headland, the lighthouse marks the entrance to the bay and offers wide views of the coastline in both directions.
• The Kiss Bridge (Puente del Beso) – This small bridge over the Río Negro is tied to the town’s best-known legend: the pirate Cambaral, captured and wounded, fell in love with a local nobleman’s daughter, and the couple were beheaded here while sharing a final kiss.
• Barrio del Cambaral – The old fishermen’s quarter, named after the same pirate, is a maze of steep lanes, stairways and tiny squares squeezed between the houses – ideal for an unhurried wander.
• Palacio de los Marqueses de Ferrera – The town’s grand noble residence, a stone palace with a coat of arms that recalls Luarca’s aristocratic past alongside its seafaring one.
• Beaches and the Asturian coast – Luarca has its own town beaches by the port, and the surrounding coast is lined with coves backed by green cliffs. The dramatic Playa del Silencio, a pebble cove enclosed by rock walls, lies a short drive east.

What to eat in Luarca

Seafood is the reason many Spaniards make the trip. Luarca is famous for merluza del pincho – hake caught one at a time on a hook and line rather than in nets, prized for its firm, delicate flesh and often served simply grilled or in a light cider sauce. Look out also for pixín (monkfish), fresh sardines, octopus, goose barnacles (percebes) and the rich fish and shellfish stew known as caldereta, served in the restaurants around the harbour.

Inland Asturian classics are never far away: fabada asturiana, the hearty bean stew with chorizo, morcilla and pork, and the generous breaded veal cachopo. Asturias is a land of cheese – try Cabrales, the pungent blue, or the gentler afuega’l pitu. Everything is washed down with natural sidra (cider), poured from a great height to aerate it. For dessert, order rice pudding with a caramelised crust, frixuelos (Asturian crêpes) or casadielles, pastries filled with walnut and anise.

Shopping & crafts

The best souvenirs are edible: tins of top-quality Cantabrian conservas (bonito, anchovies, sardines), local cheeses, bottles of Asturian cider and the traditional glass used to pour it. Small shops around the port also sell maritime-themed crafts, and the wider Asturias region is known for its jet (azabache) jewellery and wooden madreñas, the traditional clogs worn in the countryside.

Best time to visit

Late spring through early autumn is the most rewarding season. From May to September the days are long, the hills are vividly green and temperatures are pleasantly mild – rarely hot, thanks to the Atlantic influence. July and August bring the liveliest atmosphere and village festivals across the region, while late spring and September are quieter and ideal for walking the headland. Rain can arrive in any month – it is what keeps the Costa Verde so green – so pack a light waterproof whatever the season.

Good to know

• Luarca is built on steep slopes: comfortable, non-slip shoes make the climb to the chapel, cemetery and lighthouse far easier.
• Lunch in northern Spain is typically served from around 1:30 to 4 pm and dinner rarely before 8:30 or 9 pm – plan your seafood meal accordingly.
• Cider is poured a little at a time and drunk in one go; let the waiter or the cider bar staff do the pouring.
• Weather on the Cantabrian coast changes quickly – a light jacket and layers are useful even in summer.
• Luarca pairs naturally with other gems of the green north – Oviedo, Gijón, the Picos de Europa and Galicia – which is why it features on luxury train journeys along the coast. Ask Palace Tours to tailor a stay before or after your journey.