Khajuraho Travel Guide: Temples, Food & Best Time to Visit

Khajuraho sits in the Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh, in the heart of the old Bundelkhand region, roughly 620 km southeast of Delhi and about 175 km from the rail junction of Jhansi. It is a small, quiet town set among farmland and low scrubby hills, with the Ken River flowing a short drive to the east and the forests of Panna National Park just beyond. Yet this unassuming village holds one of the greatest concentrations of medieval temple art anywhere in the world.

Between roughly the 10th and 12th centuries, the Chandela dynasty made Khajuraho a religious and ceremonial capital and raised some 85 temples here, dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and the Jain tirthankaras. Around 25 survive today, protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. Their sandstone walls are covered in thousands of sculptures — gods and goddesses, celestial dancers, musicians, warriors, elephants and the famous sensual couples — offering a vivid portrait of life, faith and art in medieval India. On Palace Tours’ Heritage of India journey, Khajuraho is a highlight that travellers remember long after they return home.

What to see in Khajuraho

• Kandariya Mahadeva Temple — The largest and most celebrated temple at Khajuraho, dedicated to Shiva. Its soaring spire rises in a cascade of smaller peaks like a mountain range, and its walls carry more than 800 carved figures.
• Lakshmana Temple — One of the oldest and best-preserved temples of the Western Group, dedicated to Vishnu. Look for the detailed friezes of processions, hunting scenes and armies along its platform.
• Vishvanatha and Nandi Temples — A matched pair facing each other: the Shiva temple with its elegant sculpted maidens, and a pavilion sheltering a massive polished stone Nandi, Shiva’s sacred bull.
• Chitragupta and Devi Jagadambi Temples — Smaller but exquisitely carved shrines in the Western Group; Chitragupta is one of the few temples in India dedicated to the sun god Surya.
• Matangeshvara Temple — Standing just outside the Western Group enclosure, this is the one temple still in daily worship, housing a large polished lingam. Visit at dawn to see local devotees and hear the bells.
• Eastern Group Jain Temples — The Parsvanatha, Adinatha and Ghantai temples show a gentler, more intricate carving style and are still active places of Jain worship, surrounded by a peaceful village setting.
• Duladeo and Chaturbhuja Temples — The Southern Group, a short drive from town, is quieter and less visited; Chaturbhuja’s large four-armed Vishnu image is especially striking at sunset.
• Archaeological Museum and Light Show — The Archaeological Survey of India museum near the Western Group displays fine sculptures recovered from the site, and the evening sound-and-light show narrates the story of the Chandela kings.

What to eat in Khajuraho

Khajuraho’s food reflects the hearty cooking of Bundelkhand and wider Madhya Pradesh. Look for dal bafla, wheat dumplings baked, dipped in ghee and served with spiced lentils, and the region’s beloved breakfast of poha with jalebi, flattened rice tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves and paired with crisp syrup-soaked spirals. Bhutte ka kees, grated corn cooked with milk and spices, and sabudana khichdi are local favourites too, alongside classic North Indian thalis in the town’s restaurants.

For something sweet, try mawa bati, a rich milk-solid dumpling in syrup, or warm malpua pancakes. Wash it down with a tall glass of chilled lassi or a cup of spiced masala chai from a roadside stall between temple visits.

Shopping & crafts

Local artisans produce carved stone and sandstone replicas of the temple sculptures, from small figurines to larger pieces. Madhya Pradesh is also known for dhokra brass casting using the ancient lost-wax method, as well as handloom textiles and hand-painted crafts, all found in the shops around the Western Group. Bargain politely, and ask shops to arrange shipping for heavier items.

Best time to visit

The most comfortable season is October to March, when days are sunny and pleasant and evenings cool — ideal for walking between temples. Late winter is also when the town hosts its well-known classical dance festival, with performances staged against the illuminated temples. April to June is very hot, and the July to September monsoon brings green landscapes but humid, rainy days.

Good to know

• Khajuraho has its own small airport with domestic connections, as well as a railway station; many travellers combine it with Varanasi, Agra and Orchha.
• The Western Group is a ticketed, well-kept enclosure; allow at least half a day and hire an approved guide to decode the sculptures and their symbolism.
• Remove shoes before entering temples still in active worship, such as Matangeshvara and the Jain temples, and dress modestly.
• Early morning and late afternoon light is best for photography and far cooler than midday.
• Pair your visit with a safari in nearby Panna National Park or a stop at the Raneh Falls canyon on the Ken River.