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Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan, is one of Central Asia’s most extraordinary and least-visited cities — a gleaming expanse of white-marble towers, gold-domed monuments and vast ceremonial boulevards rising from the edge of the Karakum Desert. Set on a plain between the shifting dunes and the Kopet Dag mountains that form the border with Iran, the city was almost entirely rebuilt after a devastating 1948 earthquake, and today holds a Guinness World Record for the highest concentration of white-marble-clad buildings on Earth. The effect is unforgettable: fountains that run in a desert land, monumental arches, and horse statues honouring the celebrated golden Akhal-Teke breed.

For travellers on the Silk Road, Ashgabat is a natural and often unexpected highlight. The city sits close to the ancient Parthian ruins of Nisa and served for centuries as a caravan crossroads between Persia and the great oasis cities of Central Asia. Reaching it is part of the adventure — and few journeys do it in greater comfort than aboard the Golden Eagle luxury train, which glides across the deserts and steppes of the region on the Golden Eagle: Republics of The Silk Road itinerary offered by Palace Tours. This guide covers what to see, what to eat, and how to make the most of a stop in this remarkable marble capital.

What to see in Ashgabat

• Independence Monument — A towering column crowned with a golden crescent, set in landscaped parkland and ringed by gilded statues of Turkmen heroes. It is one of the city’s most photographed landmarks and a fitting introduction to Ashgabat’s grand scale.
• Neutrality Monument (Arch of Neutrality) — A soaring tripod arch topped by a golden statue that once famously rotated to face the sun. A viewing platform offers sweeping panoramas across the white-marble skyline.
• Türkmenbašy Ruhy Mosque — Located in nearby Kipchak, this is one of Central Asia’s largest mosques, capped by a vast gold dome and framed by four slender minarets, all in dazzling white marble.
• National Museum of Turkmenistan — The country’s premier collection, with treasures from the Parthian city of Nisa, Bronze Age artefacts, carpets and ethnographic displays that trace Turkmen culture across millennia.
• Nisa Fortress — Just outside the city, the UNESCO-listed ruins of this ancient Parthian royal citadel offer a striking contrast to the modern marble capital and a genuine link to Silk Road antiquity.
• Alem Cultural and Entertainment Centre — Home to one of the world’s largest enclosed Ferris wheels, an emblem of Ashgabat’s fondness for record-setting architecture.
• Ertugrul Gazi Mosque — Modelled on Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, this elegant house of worship brings a touch of Ottoman grandeur to the Turkmen capital.
• Altyn Asyr (Tolkuchka) Bazaar — A sprawling market on the city’s outskirts, legendary for its Turkmen carpets, livestock, jewellery and the buzz of everyday Central Asian life.

What to eat in Ashgabat

Turkmen cuisine is hearty, meat-forward and shaped by centuries of nomadic and Silk Road influence. The staple is plov (pilaf) — rice slow-cooked with lamb, carrots and onions — served at celebrations and everyday tables alike. Grilled shashlik skewers, steamed manty dumplings, and rich chorba soups feature widely, alongside dograma, a torn-bread-and-meat dish reserved for special occasions, and ishlekli, a substantial baked meat pie. Fresh flatbread, or churek, accompanies almost every meal, often baked in a tandyr clay oven.

Turkmenistan is also justly famous for its melons — so prized that the nation dedicates a national holiday to them — and no meal is complete without green tea, poured generously and sipped throughout the day. Save room for gutap, fried turnovers filled with herbs, pumpkin or meat, which make a perfect street-food snack between sightseeing stops.

Shopping & crafts

The Turkmen carpet is a national emblem, its distinctive gül medallion motifs woven in deep reds and appearing even on the country’s flag. Ashgabat’s bazaars and state carpet shops are the place to admire and buy them, along with silk textiles, silver jewellery set with carnelian, and the iconic shaggy telpek sheepskin hats worn by Turkmen men. Purchasing antique carpets may require an export certificate, so buy from reputable sellers who can arrange the paperwork.

Best time to visit

Ashgabat has a harsh desert climate with scorching summers that regularly exceed 40°C and cold, short winters. The most comfortable months to visit are spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October), when daytime temperatures are pleasant and the skies are clear — ideal conditions for exploring the city’s open plazas and monuments on foot.

Good to know

• Turkmenistan maintains a strict visa regime; most visitors need a visa arranged in advance, and organised tours or rail journeys greatly simplify the process.
• Photography is restricted around government buildings, palaces and some monuments — always ask or follow your guide’s lead before taking pictures.
• The local currency is the Turkmen manat, and the country remains largely cash-based, so carry sufficient funds.
• Dress modestly and conservatively, particularly when visiting mosques and official sites.
• Summers are extremely hot; carry water, sun protection and a hat, and plan outdoor sightseeing for early morning or late afternoon.